Indigenous Leafy Vegetables in Kenya: A Nutrient-Rich Culinary Revival
In recent years, indigenous leafy vegetables, once regarded as mere weeds or "poor man’s food" in Kenya, have gained newfound popularity. Now cultivated on farms, featured in local markets, and showcased on restaurant menus, these nutrient-dense greens are making a significant impact on the culinary landscape.
At Skinners Restaurant in Gachie, just outside Nairobi, the demand for "kienyeji," the Swahili term for local vegetable varieties, is soaring. Employee Kimani Ng’ang’a revealed that customers frequently request these traditional greens, even though they come at a premium due to their limited availability. "Many people ask for kienyeji when they come here," he noted, highlighting a shift in consumer preferences towards these wholesome options.
While imported vegetables like cabbage, spinach, and kale—first introduced by colonial authorities before the 1960s—remain more affordable and accessible, the appeal of local, organically grown varieties is on the rise. Locals are increasingly aware of the numerous health benefits associated with eating these indigenous greens. For example, James Wathiru, a diner at the restaurant, shared that he chose "managu" (African nightshade) for its detoxifying properties and weight loss benefits. Another patron emphasized the superior taste of these traditional greens.
Horticulture professor Mary Abukutsa-Onyango has observed this positive trend in vegetable consumption. Government data supports her findings, revealing that production of local greens has doubled over the past decade, with 300,000 tonnes harvested by farmers last year. This marks a remarkable turnaround in perceptions, as traditional crops were once dismissed as inferior. In fact, many indigenous vegetables are more resistant to pests and diseases, making them ideal for organic farming.
Reflecting on her early research in the 1980s, Prof. Abukutsa-Onyango recalled how indigenous vegetables were often labeled as "weeds." She has since dedicated her career to promoting these crops for food security in Kenya. According to her studies, vegetables like "mrenda" (jute mallow) and "terere" (amaranth) boast higher levels of essential minerals, vitamins A and C, and antioxidants compared to common greens like sukumawiki (spring greens). Notably, 100 grams of mrenda contains more nutrients than an equivalent serving of cabbage, making these local varieties an excellent choice for health-conscious consumers.
In recognition of her efforts and the importance of preserving indigenous crops, UNESCO commended Kenya in 2021 for safeguarding its intangible cultural heritage. Since 2007, the Kenyan government has collaborated with scientists and local communities to document traditional foods, resulting in an inventory of 850 indigenous plants and their local names.
While sukumawiki remains a staple crop—producing over 700,000 tonnes in 2023—many farmers, like Francis Ngiri, are transitioning to organic farming of indigenous varieties. Ngiri, who relocated his farming operation to Kenya’s Rift Valley to avoid chemical contamination, has expanded his crop diversity from 14 native varieties in 2016 to 124 today. His farm has become a hub for seed exchanges among 800 regional farmers, ensuring the preservation of these "forgotten plants."
However, the Kenyan government has strict regulations regarding seed exchange, which complicates efforts to promote indigenous crop varieties. The 2012 law aimed to protect farmers from low-quality seeds inadvertently hinders the conservation of traditional crops. Wambui Wakahiu, who trains farmers on seed conservation, notes that more than 35 traditional plant varieties have been completely lost in one county due to these regulations.
Despite these challenges, farmers like Ngiri continue to champion the cause of indigenous crops. Though seed exchanges are technically illegal, they persist in their efforts to preserve genetic diversity for future generations. Dr. Peterson Wambugu, a chief research scientist at the Kenya Agricultural and Livestock Research Organization, acknowledges that current laws conflict with international treaties that support farmers’ rights to save and exchange seeds. Efforts are underway to draft new regulations that align Kenyan law with these treaties.
As the popularity of indigenous greens continues to rise, vendors like Priscilla Njeri in the bustling Wangige market observe a significant shift in consumer preferences. With increased media campaigns promoting the benefits of these local vegetables, she notes that varieties such as managu, terere, and kanzira (African kale) are now highly sought after. "All the kienyeji greens are good because they have a better taste," she asserts.
In summary, the revival of indigenous leafy vegetables in Kenya represents a positive shift towards healthier, organic eating. As awareness grows and consumer demand rises, these nutrient-rich greens are reclaiming their rightful place in the hearts and plates of Kenyans.
